- Old Craftsman Table Saw Dado Throat Plate Manual Calls The#
- Old Craftsman Table Saw Dado Throat Plate Full Kerf Is#
You bought a new blade, or you need a dado blade, or just because the old one.On October 21, 2019, my 25-year-old Craftsman table saw died. I have seen guys use acrylic, but I had visions of the acrylic breaking and sending shrapnel into me.Most table saws have an insert thats good for a most applications: it can. The challenge is that it’s the super thin steel one, and I couldn’t find a replacement. It had the original throat plate, but no dado plate. Picked up an older Craftsman 113.298 saw, that I have done some work to.
On October 24, I purchased a Craftsman CMXETAX69434502 table saw from Lowes for $199.99. Winter was closing in and I needed to get the house protected so I couldn't spend a lot of time selecting a replacement. I was in the middle of re-shingling part of the house and needed a table saw to square up the shingles after they were back-primed. But now the motor would not spin up at all, instead making a horrible noise and then triggering the circuit breaker. To start the motor, I had to flick the blade into motion with a stick. The handle for tightening the rip fence had broken off and other handles were loose.
I don't hold any grudge against Lowes. I was able to make a zero clearance throat plate to fix that issue.Here's a link to the product page at Lowes. My advice to anyone considering purchasing this product is to spend a little more money unless your requirements are very basic indeed.A zero-clearance insert is a replacement for the throat plate that was included with your table saw.If you use a stacked dado blade set for cutting dadoes or rabbets, your stock throat plate would need to be removed, as the slot for the saw blade isn't wide enough to accommodate the width of the dado blade.Table Saw has a powerful 15 Amp motor that generates 5000 RPM and is designed for. The saw does the job I bought it for (sawing shingles), but anything more demanding is a struggle. One month later, I have to admit that I'm disappointed, even allowing for the low price (which, by the way, has since been reduced to $159.99).
By epoxying a piece of References to this saw on the Internet are almost non-existent. Many aluminum saws and Sears saws come with thin throat plates that are difficult to duplicate with a zero clearance slot. 36-502 Dado Throat Plate Metal Replace for the Delta,compatible with Delta Table saws 36-5000,36-5052,36-5100, 36-5152.Easy Zero Clearance Throatplate for Any Table Saw: Tablesaws come with throat plate blade slots that are too wide for safe cuts on narrow boards. I could have afforded a $500 saw, but I didn't have the time to figure out which was the right $500 saw to buy.Newer Craftsman/Rigid Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert (After 1988) by Peachtree Woodworking PW953 Approx Dims: 14 in x 3-3/4 in x 3/16 in. The other options seemed to start at about $500. He said that if I didn't like it I could take it back, but I can't in all honesty do that as it's no longer in saleable condition.
When unlocked, you can pick it straight up and put it down in a new position (or stow it in brackets on the right hand side of the saw). In fact, I'll start with the things I was pleased with, or at least not immediately disappointed with.What at first suggested to me that I'd made a good decision was the rip fence. I'll try to keep in mind how little money I spent on it in fairness to the manufacturer. On September 21, 2019, bigelite94 posted his sixth YouTube video in which he spends a minute and a half walking around the assembled saw saying things like "it is what it is".So, I'm going to tell you what I think of the saw, feature by feature. Three months ago an apparent power tool enthusiast posted pictures of its box. This one is sold only at Lowes.
Old Craftsman Table Saw Dado Throat Plate Manual Calls The
Its purpose is described as ". It would probably be perpendicular to the table if the table was flat (see below).There is an accessory stored on the right hand side of the saw, near the rip fence, that the Instruction Manual calls the "sub fence assembly" (page 19). The fence locks firmly and, as far as I can tell, is reliably parallel to the blade. If it balks, just lift it and blow the sawdust from the slot it rides in.
I personally can't see how this accessory will be of any help, but here is a YouTube video of someone using something similar on a Bosch saw (jump to 2:42).The saw comes with a fitted riving knife. It attaches to the rip fence as shown in Fig. To prevent hands from getting too close to the blade".
Old Craftsman Table Saw Dado Throat Plate Full Kerf Is
A 1/8 inch full kerf is 3.175 mm and a 3/32″ thin kerf is 2.38125 mm. Markings on the riving knife state that the blade core must be thinner than 2.2 mm and the cut (kerf) must be wider than 2.6 mm. This may be good, because if I could get it off it would probably be in the trash. But I cannot figure out how to remove the riving knife. The latter I have not even installed as they will always be in the way.
You can "adjust" it to one of three positions. Sure enough, with my crosscut blades when the work piece reaches the riving knife it jams. It seems to me that all blades sold in stores these days are thin kerf, certainly every one of my existing stock of blades is thin kerf (except the new one that came with this saw).
All-in-all this is a major inconvenience. But, this is not low enough to clear a 7¼ inch diameter blade that I occasionally use for aluminum. It can also be lowered for dado cuts. For blind cuts, the top is just below the top of the blade.
Using it would be dangerous. A side benefit of this blade is that dados made with repeated cuts are much flatter at the bottom than with ATB-only blades.The long, thin plastic push stick supplied with the table saw should be thrown away. In every group of five teeth, there are four ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) teeth with small gullets for smooth crosscuts and one FTG (Flat Top Grind) followed by a deep gullet to clear removed material efficiently on rip cuts. The differences between this and a general purpose blade are the larger tooth count and the use of "raker" teeth and large gullets at every fifth tooth to improve rip performance.
The hole, through which I can put my fingers, may be a bad idea. I made mine very quickly from a piece of scrap plywood that was already a suitable shape Not easily seen in the picture at right is the vinyl strip glued to the bottom edge to "grab" the work. Do your research, watch a few videos and decide on what you prefer, but I doubt that you'll keep the supplied push stick. You can also use a second stick of non-critical shape to press the work into the fence along the part that has yet to reach the blade (never press the work into the blade). If the bottom of the push stick is covered with something that provides friction, then a twist of the wrist will supply pressure against the fence. This allows you to hold the work firmly down on the table surface.
What happens to a wide piece depends on where you're applying the downward pressure. A narrow piece will ride to the left of the hump and slope slightly down, right-to-left, so that the angle between the bottom and the new cut will be less than 90°. Suppose that there is a high spot (a "hump") in the table to the right of the blade (and that you're working on the right side of the blade). However, if the table is not flat, it is not possible for this adjustment to be accurate for all sizes of workpiece. The zero-tilt angle of the blade can be adjusted to facilitate this (refer to the instruction manual). I take no responsibility for your safety, I'm just warning you that by supplying a poorly designed push stick, Craftsman isn't taking responsibility for your safety either.A basic requirement of a table saw is that if I put a piece of stock down flat on the table and pass it through the blade, then the new cut should be at right angles to the bottom face that was on the table surface (assuming that no blade tilt is dialed in).
At first I had the idea that I could build up the low areas with epoxy, but I was not sure that the rip fence would still work afterwards if the table edges, to which the fence clamps, dipped down along with the surface. This is precisely what I found was happening, leading me to look for a cause and discover the non-flat table surface.Eventually, I found the time to see if I could do something to level the table. If the hump is not uniform from front to back, then as the workpiece moves past the blade it will sway from side to side and the cut angle will change. If you hold it down near the fence, then the hump will cause it to tilt up at the blade, at best causing a cut at greater than 90° and at worst causing a dangerous situation as the blade strikes unsupported material.
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